Why red plants bring so much life to your home

Colour shapes how we perceive a space, and few shades have the strength of red. Red plants add warmth, draw the eye and work as a natural focal point in any room. They combine wonderfully with the green of foliage, with neutral terracotta or cement pots and with settings both modern and rustic. What is more, the variety is enormous: there are flowering ones, ornamental-leaf ones and tropical spiked ones, so you will always find one that suits the light and style of your home.

7 red plants to fill your home with energy

This is our selection with the most character. Some shine as indoor plants and others unfold all their colour in the garden or on the terrace; in each entry we tell you which setting they prefer.

1. Anthurium

The anthurium is probably the most elegant of the indoor red plants. Its heart-shaped spathe, glossy and almost lacquered, is paired with a central spadix that makes it unmistakable. It appreciates bright but indirect light, a setting with some humidity and moderate watering that does not waterlog the pot. It is a perfect choice as a gift or to add a tropical touch to a living room.

2. Salvia splendens

Salvia splendens is an explosion of red spikes that never goes unnoticed in flowerbeds, planters and balconies. It is an outdoor plant that enjoys the sun and regular watering during the warm months, and it flowers generously when it gets good light. Its fiery colour makes it one of the favourites for bringing the garden to life in summer.

3. Kalanchoe blossfeldiana

If you are after colour with minimal effort, the kalanchoe blossfeldiana is your ally. This succulent with clustered red flowers is very hardy, tolerates a lack of water well thanks to its fleshy leaves and blooms for weeks. It needs good light and spaced-out watering, letting the substrate dry between one and the next. Ideal for those starting out in the world of plants.

4. Caladium

The caladium stands out not for its flower but for its spectacular red leaves with marked veins and green edges. It is a tropical foliage plant that enjoys warmth, ambient humidity and indirect light that enhances its colour without scorching the leaves. It brings a lovely drama to any indoor corner.

5. Red fittonia

The fittonia, known as the nerve plant, shows off green leaves crossed by a network of very striking reddish-pink veins. It is small and perfect for terrariums, tables and shelves. It loves humidity and soft light, and it warns you at once when it is thirsty by dropping its leaves, which recover once watered. One of the most original for indoors.

6. Red Ginger

The red ginger (Alpinia) unfurls striking spikes of red bracts with an exotic air. It is a tropical plant that needs warmth and humidity to shine in all its splendour, much appreciated for its sculptural bearing and its long life as a cut flower. A treat for lovers of the spectacular.

7. Poppy

The poppy closes this guide with its wild charm. With delicate red petals and a simple look, it is an outdoor flower that loves full sun and well-drained soils. Perfect for giving a natural, countryside air to borders and gardens, evoking those red fields so typical of spring.

Tips for decorating with red plants

To make your red plants look their best, group them with green foliage that contrasts and enhances the colour. Spread the different shades of red around the house to create points of energy without overloading, and choose neutral pots that let the plant take all the attention. Respect the light each species asks for —direct for outdoor ones, indirect for indoor ones— and adjust watering to their nature: spaced out for succulents, more constant for the tropical leafy ones. With these simple gestures, decorating with red plants is very easy and the result is a home full of vitality.

At our nursery in Chiclana you will find many of these species and the advice to choose the one that best suits your home. You can see where we are at our location on Google Maps and come and discover them in person.

Frequently asked questions about red plants

Which red plants are best to keep indoors?

For indoors the anthurium, the caladium and the red fittonia stand out, as they adapt well to indirect light and to the somewhat humid settings of the home. The kalanchoe also works indoors as long as it gets good light.

Do red plants need a lot of sun?

It depends on the species. Outdoor ones such as salvia splendens or the poppy ask for direct sun, while leafy ones like the caladium or the fittonia prefer bright but filtered light so they do not scorch.

Is it hard to care for red plants at home?

It does not have to be. Many of them, like the kalanchoe, are very hardy and rewarding. The key is to respect the light and watering each one asks for; with those two basic cares they stay healthy and full of colour.

What are Losteflor’s summer hours from Monday to Friday?

Throughout August, Losteflor’s summer hours move to a shortened schedule from Monday to Friday: we’re open from 8:00 am to 3:00 pm. This change is designed to let our team give you quality attention during the cooler hours, without the midday break we keep the rest of the year.

Losteflor summer hours: Saturdays and Sundays at the nursery

Weekends don’t change: on Saturdays and Sundays you can visit us at our usual hours, from 9:30 am to 2:30 pm. If you’d rather stroll among the plants at a more relaxed pace, the weekend remains the best time to do it.

Why we change Losteflor’s summer hours in August

The reason behind Losteflor’s summer hours is simple: taking care of you is our priority, and in the height of summer that means concentrating opening hours in the morning, when the heat is milder and a visit to the nursery is more pleasant both for you and for the plants you take home.

Tips for making the most of Losteflor’s summer hours

With the shortened schedule, mornings concentrate all the nursery’s activity. If you can, plan your visit early: you’ll find freshly watered plants, milder temperatures for walking among them, and more time for our team to advise you without rushing before closing. Take the chance to ask about summer care for whatever you take home, especially watering and placement, since the recommendations change quite a bit compared to the rest of the year.

How to care for the plants you buy during these summer hours

Shopping during the cooler hours also benefits the plants you take home. Avoid leaving them inside the car in the sun while you run other errands; if the drive is long, protect them from the direct blast of the air conditioning and place them in the shade as soon as you arrive. Water them as soon as you get home if the root ball’s soil is dry, and wait for the coolest hours of the day — early morning or dusk — to place them in their final spot in the garden or on the terrace. These are simple gestures, but they make the difference between a plant that settles in well and one that struggles with the move in the middle of summer.

Thank you for continuing to fill Losteflor with life on every visit: this adjustment simply aims to give that care back to you, while also looking after our team during the hottest days.

Frequently asked questions about Losteflor’s summer hours

What are Losteflor’s summer hours in August?
Monday to Friday we’re open from 8:00 am to 3:00 pm on a shortened schedule; Saturdays and Sundays, from 9:30 am to 2:30 pm, as the rest of the year.

Do Losteflor’s summer hours affect weekends?
No. The change to a shortened schedule only affects weekdays; Saturday and Sunday hours stay the same.

How long does this special schedule last?
Losteflor’s summer hours remain in effect throughout the month of August.

Do I need an appointment to visit the nursery?
No, you’re welcome to drop by freely within the hours listed. If you have any specific questions, feel free to contact us before your visit.

The good news is that none of these mistakes is hard to correct. With a couple of tweaks to your routine, your summer plants can go from just surviving to looking splendid, even during the hottest weeks in the south of Spain.

Mistake 1: watering at midday or wetting the leaves in full sun

When the heat kicks in it is tempting to grab the watering can at lunchtime, right when the soil looks driest. However, it is one of the most damaging slip-ups during a heatwave. The water left on the leaves under direct sun acts like a magnifying glass and burns them, leaving brown spots that never recover.

What is more, if you water hot soil at midday, the roots suffer a strong thermal shock. The solution is simple: always water first thing in the morning or at dusk, once the substrate has cooled down. That way the water really soaks down to the roots instead of evaporating before it can be used.

Mistake 2: moving the plant to a new spot all at once

Because it is hot, instinct tells us to move the plant to a “cooler” place. It seems logical, but it is another classic mistake with summer plants. A sudden change in light and air flow stresses them and makes them drop their leaves overnight, just when we thought we were helping.

Plants need time to acclimatise to any new corner. If you really want to relocate one, do it gradually: move it a little closer to its new spot over several days. This way it adapts without any shocks and keeps its foliage healthy.

Mistake 3: flooding the pot “just in case”

The third mistake is perhaps the most common: overwatering out of fear that the plant will go thirsty. With soggy soil and the heat, the roots drown and rot in record time. Hard as it is to believe, too much water kills more summer plants than drought itself.

Before watering again, always check the moisture by pushing your finger a couple of centimetres into the soil. Only when you feel the substrate dry to the touch is it time to give it a drink. A pot with good drainage and a saucer free of standing water make a huge difference during the hottest months.

How to keep your summer plants healthy and happy

Correcting these three habits is easier than it looks and, even so, it completely transforms how your summer plants look. Water early, move them patiently and check the soil before reaching for the watering can: with that basic routine you will avoid most of the season’s scares.

And if one is already showing signs of stress, do not give it up for lost. Often it is enough to remove the damaged leaves, adjust the watering and give it a few days of gentle shade so it bounces back strongly once temperatures drop.

Any questions? Visit us in Chiclana

Every species has its quirks, and it is not always easy to get the ideal care right at home. If you have any doubts about how to look after your summer plants, come to Losteflor and tell us about your case: we will help you choose the right watering, location and substrate for each plant. You can find us at our nursery in Chiclana de la Frontera, where we care for your plants as they deserve.

Frequently asked questions about summer plants

What is the best time to water plants in summer?

The ideal moment is first thing in the morning or at dusk. At those times the substrate is cooler, the water does not evaporate as quickly and you avoid the drops on the leaves causing burns under direct sun.

How often should I water my plants in the heat?

There is no fixed number: it depends on each species, the pot and the location. The safest rule is to check the moisture with your finger and only water when the soil is dry below the surface, rather than following a rigid schedule.

Can I move my plants to a new spot when it is very hot?

Yes, but always gradually. A sudden move to a place with different light or air flow stresses them and makes them lose leaves. Move them little by little over several days so they acclimatise without suffering.

How do I know if my plant is rotting from too much water?

The typical signs are yellowish, soft leaves, dark stems at the base and a musty smell in the soil. If you spot these symptoms, stop watering, check the drainage and, if necessary, repot into fresh, aerated substrate.

In this guide we bring together six orange plants that combine flowers and foliage full of visual vitamin, with their basic care explained clearly. You will find options for full sun, for partial shade and for pots, so you can choose the one that best fits your terrace, patio or Mediterranean garden.

Why choose orange plants

The colour orange brings a spectacular contrast against the green of the garden and against the pale walls so typical of the south. Many orange plants are also heat-resistant species with generous blooming, which makes them perfect allies for anyone looking for cheerfulness without complications. Several of them attract butterflies and bees, so they also help keep the garden’s balance alive.

Strelitzia (bird of paradise)

The strelitzia, known as the bird of paradise, is the undisputed queen among orange plants. Its flower resembles the plumage of an exotic bird, with intense orange bracts and blue details that look hand-drawn. It is a subtropical plant that adapts very well to the Cadiz coast.

It likes plenty of light, even gentle direct sun, and a soil with good drainage. Water moderately, letting the top layer of soil dry out between waterings, and protect it from hard frosts. With patience it rewards you with long-lasting blooms that hold up beautifully in a vase.

Clivia

The clivia is perfect for those corners where other species do not thrive, because it appreciates partial shade and shelter. Its umbels of orange flowers with a yellow throat light up patios and galleries during late winter and spring, when a splash of colour is most welcome.

It prefers filtered light and fears the direct midday sun, which can burn its leaves. Water little in winter and a bit more during the growing season; it tolerates a certain amount of neglect well. A tip: it appreciates spending a few weeks drier and cooler before blooming, so do not pamper it too much.

Lantana camara

If you are looking for all-terrain orange plants for full sun, lantana is a safe bet. Its clusters combine orange, yellow and amber tones that shift as the flower matures, creating a very lively mosaic. It is one of the favourites of butterflies and bees.

It withstands heat, drought and the coastal environment with hardly a complaint. It only asks for direct sun, a soil that drains and spaced waterings once established. A light prune after flowering keeps the bush compact and prolongs the show for a good part of the year.

Crossandra

The crossandra brings a warm and very uniform orange thanks to its fan-shaped flowers, which appear tirelessly throughout the warm months. It is a compact plant ideal for pots, patio tables and bright indoor spaces.

It does well with bright but filtered light and a somewhat humid environment, without waterlogging. Keep the substrate slightly moist and avoid cold draughts. In areas with a mild climate it can spend the winter sheltered on the terrace, ready to bloom again as soon as temperatures rise.

Kalanchoe

Among the most rewarding orange plants is the kalanchoe, a succulent with tiny flowers grouped in clusters that last for weeks. Its fleshy foliage stores water, so it forgives forgetfulness and fits perfectly for anyone starting out with plants.

It wants plenty of light to bloom strongly and very little water: water only when the substrate is completely dry. Excellent drainage is the key to preventing the roots from rotting. In pots, it brightens windowsills, staircases and sunny corners with minimal effort.

Heuchera

Not all orange comes from flowers: the heuchera proves that foliage can also take centre stage. Its wavy leaves display amber, caramel and coppery tones that hold for much of the year, adding colour even when other plants are resting.

It prefers cool partial shade and a soil that retains some moisture without becoming waterlogged. It is perfect for accompanying the flowering species above and creating contrasting compositions. A mulch around it helps keep the roots cool during the summer.

How to combine orange plants in your garden

The secret to showing off these orange plants lies in playing with heights and textures: the strelitzia as a sculptural backdrop, the lantana and kalanchoe in the sunny foreground, and the clivia or heuchera for the shady corners. Orange combines wonderfully with intense greens, with blues and with touches of white, so let yourself go.

If you want advice on which species best fits your space and climate, you can get in touch with our team. And if you prefer to see them in person, we look forward to welcoming you at our nursery in Chiclana de la Frontera, whose location you can check on Google Maps.

Frequently asked questions about orange plants

Which orange plants best withstand full sun?

Lantana camara and kalanchoe are among the orange plants that best tolerate direct sun and heat. Strelitzia also accepts plenty of light, always with proper watering and good drainage.

Are there orange plants for shady areas?

Yes. Clivia and heuchera prefer partial shade and are ideal for patios, galleries or sheltered corners where the midday sun does not reach strongly.

Can I grow these plants in pots?

Many of these species adapt well to pots, especially kalanchoe, crossandra and clivia. You only need a container with good drainage and a quality substrate for them to look healthy.

In this article we walk you through the three essential care steps a newly bought plant needs when it arrives home: wait before repotting, find it a fixed spot, and check its leaves carefully. Three simple gestures that make the difference between a plant that takes off with vigour and one that stalls.

1. Don’t repot your newly bought plant straight away

The temptation to show off a pretty new pot on the first day is huge, and yet it is the most common mistake. Repotting is a stressful process for any plant, and a newly bought plant is already juggling many changes at once: new light, new temperature, new ambient humidity. Adding the handling of its roots on top of that is asking too much of it.

Give it about two weeks to settle into its new surroundings before moving it to another pot. That margin lets it settle in and find its rhythm again. Once that time has passed, choose a container just slightly bigger than the current one, with good drainage, and use a quality substrate suited to its species. If you want to go over the full process, on the blog you’ll find more tips on repotting and general care.

2. Find a fixed spot: light matters more than you think

Plants spend energy adapting to the light of each corner. Every time you move your newly bought plant, you force it to reorient its leaves and start that process all over again. If you move it too much, it stops growing: all its energy goes into adapting instead of into developing leaves and roots.

That’s why the second essential care step is to choose its location well from the start and leave it still. Watch what light your species needs: most indoor plants appreciate plenty of light but indirect, away from the direct sun that can scorch the leaves through a window pane. Once you’ve found that corner, resist the temptation to redecorate every week.

3. Check your newly bought plant’s leaves for pests

The third essential care step is a thorough inspection the moment it arrives. Look carefully at the underside of the leaves, the stems and the surface of the substrate: it’s better to spot an uninvited “guest” now than to fight a spread-out pest later, once it has already jumped to the rest of your collection.

Look for tiny dots that move, fine cobwebs, cottony specks or stickiness on the leaves: these are common signs of red spider mite, mealybug or whitefly. If you find anything suspicious, keep the plant apart from the rest for a few days and treat it before integrating it. This little welcome ritual turns every newly bought plant into a safe addition to your home.

Other care your newly bought plant will appreciate

Beyond the three essential steps, there are a couple of simple gestures that help during the adaptation. Water in moderation: before watering, check with your finger whether the substrate is dry in the first few centimetres, because too much water is as harmful as too little. And don’t fertilise straight away; wait until the plant has settled and shows signs of new growth before adding fertiliser.

With patience and observation, within a few weeks you’ll notice new leaves: the sign that your newly bought plant now feels at home.

Choose well from the start: visit us at the garden centre

The best adaptation begins with a good choice. At Losteflor we help you find the right species for your home and explain how to care for it before it goes out the door. You can see where we are at our location on Google Maps, in Chiclana de la Frontera, or write to us via the contact page if you have doubts about a newly bought plant that just won’t take off.

Frequently asked questions about your newly bought plant

How long should I wait before repotting a newly bought plant?

It’s advisable to give it about two weeks to adapt in its original pot before moving it to another one. That way you avoid adding the stress of repotting to that of the change of environment.

Why isn’t my new plant growing?

Often it’s a question of location: if you move it around frequently, the plant spends its energy adapting to the light over and over and stops growing. Choose a fixed spot with the right light and give it time.

How do I know if it brought pests from the shop?

Check the underside of the leaves, the stems and the substrate when you get home. Dots that move, fine cobwebs or cottony specks are warning signs. When in doubt, keep it apart from the rest of your plants for a few days.

The goal when you water plants is not to pour water at random, but to understand when, how and how much each specimen needs. With a few well-chosen habits you will avoid the two most common summer mistakes: sunscald on wet leaves and overwatering that rots the roots. Let’s take it step by step.

When to water plants: timing changes everything

In extreme heat, water evaporates before it reaches the roots if you water in full sun. That is why the best time to water plants is early in the morning or in the late afternoon, when the temperature drops and the soil actually absorbs the water instead of losing it instantly.

Avoid midday at all costs. That is when the risk of scorching the leaves is greatest, through what is known as the lens effect: droplets act like tiny lenses that concentrate the light and mark the surface of the plant. Watering early has an added benefit, too, in that the pot spends the hottest hours with a reserve of moisture and the plant reaches the peak of the day far better prepared.

The right technique to water plants without harming them

How you apply the water matters just as much as the time of day. The first rule is simple: avoid wetting the leaves under strong sun, because it can cause burns and encourage fungus if the moisture stays trapped among the foliage. When you water plants, always aim the flow at the base, at the soil, which is where the plant drinks from.

The second rule is about quantity. A generous watering that reaches deep into the soil is better than several shallow waterings that only wet the top layer. Deep watering invites the roots to grow downwards, where the soil stays cool for longer; short, frequent waterings, on the other hand, leave the roots lazy at the surface, exactly the area that dries out first.

By watering slowly and at the base, you give the soil time to absorb the water without it running off the sides of the pot. If you see the water shoot out of the drainage holes almost immediately, the soil was probably very dry and compacted: in that case, water in two rounds so it rehydrates little by little.

Does it need water? Don’t guess: the finger test

Overwatering is as dangerous as underwatering, and this is perhaps the most important lesson when it comes to how to water plants. Many indoor plants drown rather than die of thirst, because we water out of routine and not out of real need. The good news is that checking is incredibly easy.

Do the finger test: push your finger into the soil about 2 to 3 centimetres. If it comes out dry, it is time to water; if you feel moisture, wait a day or two and check again. Every plant has its own rhythm, and factors such as the size of the pot, the type of soil and whether it sits in full sun or partial shade completely change the frequency. Trust your touch before the calendar.

This small gesture will spare you most upsets. Before you reach for the watering can, spend five seconds touching the soil of each pot. Over time you will learn to recognise at a glance which specimens drink more and which prefer the soil almost dry, like succulents and cacti, which appreciate you letting the soil dry out well between waterings.

Adapt watering to each plant

Not every species asks for the same thing. Large-leaved and tropical plants, such as monsteras, evaporate a lot of water and need soil that never fully dries out. Succulents, cacti and many Mediterranean herbs, by contrast, are built for drought and prefer few waterings but well spaced out. If you like, you can check the day’s forecast on the website of the Spanish State Meteorological Agency to stay ahead of heatwaves and step up watering on the most extreme days.

Applying these tips to water plants well is the best investment you can make in your garden this summer. With the right timing, the correct technique and the finger test, your plants will make it through the season strong and full of colour.

Frequently asked questions about summer watering

How often should you water plants in summer?
There is no fixed number when it comes to watering plants: it depends on the species, the pot and the sun exposure. Let the finger test guide you and only water when the soil is dry 2 to 3 centimetres down.

Is it bad to water at night?
Watering in the late afternoon is perfect, but if you leave the foliage soaked all night you can encourage fungus. Aim the water at the base and avoid wetting the leaves too much.

Can I water at midday if the plant looks wilted?
It is better to wait; the plant often recovers on its own once the sun goes down. If it is badly affected, water the base in the shade, never the leaves under direct sun.

Have questions about your favourite plant? Drop by our garden centre in Chiclana or get in touch with Losteflor: tell us which plants you have and we will give you the specific advice they need for this summer.

What pothos is and why it is so popular

Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a houseplant native to Southeast Asia, prized for its heart-shaped leaves in a deep green, often marbled with yellow or cream. Its great advantage is versatility: you can let it cascade down from a shelf or a hanging planter, or train it upwards so it climbs. That dual personality, decorative and climbing, is what makes it so special and what shapes much of pothos care.

Light: the key to pothos care

Within pothos care, light makes all the difference: it will thrive in bright, indirect light. It loves brightness, but direct sun can scorch its leaves and fade the marbling. A well-lit spot near a window, but out of direct rays, is its ideal place. It tolerates partial shade well, although in very dark areas it will grow more slowly and lose some of its colours. If you notice the variegated varieties losing their yellow, it is a sign that it needs more light.

Watering: less is more

One of the most important aspects of pothos care is getting the watering right, and here the golden rule is to let the substrate dry out between waterings. This plant prefers to stay slightly dry rather than waterlogged, since excess water rots its roots easily.

How to know when to water

The plant itself will let you know: when the leaves look limp or drooping, it is a sign that it needs watering. Push a finger into the soil and, if the top few centimetres are dry, water generously and let the excess drain well. With this simple check you will avoid both thirst and overwatering, the two most common mistakes in pothos care.

The climbing side: hanging or climbing walls

This is where pothos shows its character. It is ideal for hanging or for climbing walls, and it all depends on how you train it. Training it well is part of pothos care: if you place it up high, its stems will fall to form a very striking green curtain. If you prefer it to grow upwards, add a moss pole or a few small wall supports and you will see how it grips and gains height. When it climbs and receives good light, its leaves tend to grow larger, revealing that wild side that so few people get to enjoy.

Propagate it: cuttings in water

If you want more specimens (or to give them away), pothos propagates from cuttings in water incredibly easily. Cut a stem just below a node, remove the lowest leaves and submerge it in a glass of water. In a few weeks you will see roots appear; when they are a couple of centimetres long, transplant the cutting into a pot with substrate. It is one of the most rewarding plants for getting started with propagation and one of the aspects of pothos care that the little ones of the house enjoy most as a home project.

A word about pets

Pothos care also involves keeping safety in mind: it is not a suitable plant for homes with pets that nibble on leaves, as it can be toxic if ingested. Place it up high or train it along a wall out of the reach of dogs and cats. If you are looking for safe alternatives, at the nursery we can recommend pet-friendly plants with a similar decorative effect.

Left wanting one of your own? Come and get your pothos at Losteflor and discover how to make it grow without limits. You can write to us or drop by the nursery to take yours home and clear up any doubts about pothos care. You will find us easily at our location in Chiclana de la Frontera, where we will help you choose the perfect specimen.

Frequently asked questions about pothos care

How often should you water a pothos?

There is no fixed frequency: what matters is letting the substrate dry out between waterings. Check the soil with your finger and only water when the top few centimetres are dry or when you see the leaves looking a little limp.

Does pothos need a lot of light?

It prefers bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sun, which scorches its leaves, but do not leave it in a dark corner either if you want it to keep its marbling and grow strongly.

How does pothos reproduce?

With cuttings in water. Cut a stem below a node, put it in a glass of water and, when it grows roots, transplant it into a pot. It is one of the most gratifying and simple aspects of pothos care.

Is pothos toxic to pets?

Yes, it can be toxic if dogs or cats nibble on its leaves. Place it up high or out of their reach, or ask us about pet-friendly alternatives.

Why air conditioning dries out your plants

Air conditioning cools the room by drawing the moisture out of the air. That dry air feels comfortable for people, but the tropical plants we usually keep at home —such as pothos, peace lilies or ferns— come from humid environments and quickly feel the lack of ambient humidity. The first sign is usually unmistakable: the tips of the leaves turn brown, dry and brittle, and the green colour loses its shine. It is the same effect we notice on our skin or lips after spending many hours in an air-conditioned room. The good news is that you do not have to give up comfort in summer: with a few small changes of location and routine it is easily solved, and your plants will look lush again within a few days.

1. Move your plants away from the direct air conditioning flow

It seems obvious, but a cold, constant draught is lethal for a plant. The direct jet from the unit dries out the leaves within days and stops them recovering any moisture. Move them to a spot where the air does not hit them head-on: sometimes it is enough to shift the pot a couple of metres or turn it towards a more sheltered corner of the living room. Spaces near a window, but out of the line of the split unit, tend to be a good refuge.

2. Group your plants together to create a microclimate

When you place several plants together, they hold the ambient humidity better between their leaves and protect one another. This way you create a small humid «microclimate» that cushions the drying effect of the air. It is a trick that is as simple as it is decorative: grouping specimens of different sizes in the same corner of the living room improves how they look and, at the same time, their wellbeing. The denser the arrangement, the more humidity they share.

3. Place a tray with pebbles under the pot

Put a saucer or a tray with stones and a little water underneath the pot, making sure the base does not touch the water. As it evaporates little by little, that film creates a bubble of humidity around the plant that offsets the dryness of the air conditioning. Remember to top up the water every few days, especially when the unit runs for many hours at a stretch. It is a discreet and very useful solution for the most sensitive species.

Calatheas and ferns: the plants that warn you first

If you have calatheas or ferns, pay attention to their leaves: they are the first to warn you when the environment is too dry. Their thin leaves curl up or turn brown before those of hardier plants, so they work like a natural humidity thermometer at home. When you see them looking dull, it is time to review your routine and protect the rest of your plants from the effect of the air conditioning.

Come to Losteflor to care for your plants this summer

At our garden centre in Chiclana de la Frontera you will find hardy plants and all the accessories —trays, pebbles, substrates and pots— so that your plants can live alongside the air conditioning without losing their freshness. If you have any doubts about a particular species, write to us through our contact page and we will advise you with no obligation. You can also come and meet us: here is the location of our garden centre in Chiclana, where we will be delighted to help you choose.

Frequently asked questions about plants and air conditioning

Does air conditioning kill plants?

It does not kill them outright, but a cold, constant jet dehydrates them little by little until the leaves dry out. By keeping them away from the direct flow and adding ambient humidity, they live perfectly well alongside the cooling system.

How do I know if my plants are suffering from the dry air?

The clearest clue is brown, crispy leaf tips, along with dull or curled foliage. Calatheas and ferns are the first to sound the alarm.

Can I keep indoor plants with the air conditioning on all day?

Yes. You just need to keep them out of the direct flow, group them together and give them an extra bit of humidity with a pebble tray. With those simple gestures, your plants will look healthy all summer long.

Why choose pink plants?

Adding these plants to your décor is the easiest way to give any corner a cheerful twist. Compared with classic green, pink brings warmth, personality and a laid-back feel that pairs beautifully with light walls, natural wood or neutral-toned pots. On top of that, many of these varieties are very forgiving houseplants, so you gain colour without complicating your life. And if you are after an original gift, a specimen with pink leaves always brings out a smile.

Pink foliage plants: colour all year round

The great advantage of pink-leaved pink plants is that they show their colour constantly, without depending on the flowering season. These are our favourite pink-leaved varieties at the nursery, each with its name on the photo so you can spot it when you visit us:

Pink aglaonema

The queen of this category. Its leaves combine green with broad areas and splashes of a bright salmon pink, just like the specimen on our cover. It tolerates medium light and is very hardy, ideal for beginners. You can learn more about this genus in the botanical profile of the Aglaonema.

Calathea Roseopicta

One of the most spectacular prayer plants: its large oval leaves unfurl a fuchsia-pink gradient over a dark green background, with a wine-toned underside. It appreciates humidity and indirect light, and dislikes draughts and direct sun.

Philodendron Pink Princess

The collector’s jewel. Bubblegum-pink patches and reddish petioles appear over very dark green leaves, and no two leaves are alike. It needs plenty of indirect light for the pink variegations to come through clearly.

Pink fittonia

Small and perfect for terrariums and tabletops, with a dense web of pink veins over the green leaf that brightens up any desk. It loves humidity, so it thrives in closed compositions.

Caladium

Its heart-shaped leaves look hand-painted, with large pink and white patches and strongly marked green veins. It loves warmth and humidity, something very easy to provide in a climate like that of Cádiz.

Coleus Scutellarioides

A seasonal classic for adding colour: its velvety leaves combine deep burgundy with a centre and veins of intense magenta pink. It stands up well outdoors in partial shade, ideal for filling patio pots and borders with colour.

Pink flowering plants to fill your garden with life

If you prefer the burst of colour of blooming, there are pink varieties that adapt very well to both indoors and the Mediterranean garden. Among the indoor options, the anthurium and the begonia offer pink flowers for much of the year with minimal care. Outdoors, the bougainvillea is the great ambassador of pink in Chiclana: it covers walls and pergolas with a cascade of colour that stands up to sun and heat. The geranium, the rose bush and the kalanchoe complete a perfect palette for anyone who wants a patio that is always in bloom.

How to care for your pink plants so they keep their colour

Pink is a colour that depends heavily on light. These are the keys to keeping your pink plants as intense as ever:

• Bright, indirect light: pink variegations need plenty of brightness to show themselves, but without direct sun during the strongest hours, which can scorch the leaf.
• Balanced watering: let the top few centimetres of the substrate dry out between waterings. Too much water dulls the colour and rots the roots.
• Ambient humidity: many of these plants are tropical and appreciate misting or a slightly humid spot, especially in summer.
• A nutrient-rich substrate: a gentle feed in spring and summer helps new leaves emerge with their full pink tone.

With these simple gestures, your pink plants will keep that cheerful air that makes them so special for a long time.

Now is the perfect time to add colour to your home: the Summer Plant Fest is here with 20 % off across our entire indoor and collection section, until the end of August.

Come and see us at the nursery →

Frequently asked questions about pink plants

Are pink plants hard to care for?

Not necessarily. Many of the most popular varieties, such as the aglaonema or the fittonia, are quite forgiving: with indirect light, moderate watering and a little humidity they stay beautiful.

Why is my pink plant turning green?

It is usually a lack of light. Pink variegations need plenty of brightness to keep their colour; if the specimen sits in a dark spot, it tends to produce more chlorophyll and lose its pink tone.

Do pink plants make a good gift?

They are a wonderful gift idea. They bring colour, personality and cheer up any space, so they make an original detail both for those who love plants and for anyone just starting out in the plant world.

Have you fallen in love with pink? Drop by our nursery in Chiclana de la Frontera and let us advise you: we will help you choose the pink plants that best suit your home, your garden and the way you like to care for them.

What is the foxglove and where does it come from?

It is a flowering plant of European origin that has earned a prominent place in ornamental gardening. Its botanical name, Digitalis purpurea, refers to the shape of its tubular flowers, which recall the thimbles once used for sewing. It grows by forming a rosette of soft green leaves from which a spectacular flower spike emerges, with dozens of tiered little bells in shades of pink, purple or white, almost always with the interior dotted with small speckles.

Its upright bearing makes it a natural star of flower beds and an ideal companion for roses and other garden plants, as you can see in the nursery setting. That is why the foxglove is considered a must-have in many of the most prestigious gardens.

The foxglove, an ally of pollinators

If there is one thing that sets the foxglove apart, it is its unique ability to attract pollinators naturally. Bees, in particular, feel irresistibly drawn to its bell-shaped flowers, which work like small landing pads loaded with nectar. Planting it is therefore a simple and beautiful way to support the biodiversity of your garden and to lend a hand to the ecosystem around us.

A garden full of pollinators is a more alive and healthy garden, where the rest of the plants benefit from their work too. This species thus becomes much more than an ornament: it is a key piece in helping your green space work as a small refuge for beneficial wildlife.

How to care for the foxglove in a Mediterranean garden

Adapting the foxglove to our climate in Chiclana and the province of Cádiz is perfectly possible if you keep a few basic guidelines in mind. These are the care tips that make the difference.

Light and location

The foxglove appreciates light, but in areas with hot summers like ours it prefers partial shade or gentle sun during the central hours of the day. Finding a spot sheltered from the most intense heat helps its flowers stay fresh for longer.

Watering and soil

The ideal is a fertile, well-draining soil that keeps a little moisture without becoming waterlogged. Regular but moderate watering keeps the plant vigorous; adding organic matter to the substrate and a layer of mulch helps preserve that freshness at the roots during the driest months.

Flowering and maintenance

During flowering, removing the spent blooms encourages the plant to keep producing and keeps the spike attractive. It tends to self-seed if you let some spikes mature, so with a little patience it can give you new plants year after year with hardly any effort.

A beauty best treated with respect

It is worth remembering that the foxglove is a toxic plant if ingested, in all of its parts. It is not the best choice if you have small children or curious pets with direct access to it, so it is worth placing it in controlled areas of the garden. If you are looking for gentler alternatives for those cases, at the nursery we can recommend pet-friendly plants that also offer plenty of decorative value.

Bring this plant to your garden

At Losteflor we have several foxgloves waiting for you, ready to give that fresh new look to your garden or terrace. Our team will help you choose the location and the care that best suit your space. You can write to us to clear up any questions or come and see us directly: we are at our garden nursery in Chiclana de la Frontera, where you can see the plants in person and take home the one you fall in love with.

Frequently asked questions

Does it need a lot of sun?

It prefers light, but in warm climates like the Mediterranean it grows better in partial shade or with gentle sun, protected from the hottest hours of the day.

Why does it attract bees so much?

Its bell-shaped flowers concentrate nectar and offer a perfect resting point for pollinators, which makes it one of the most effective plants for drawing them to the garden.

Is it dangerous for pets or children?

Yes, all of its parts are toxic if ingested, so it is best to plant it in controlled areas. If you need it, at the nursery we can point you toward safer options.

Where can I buy foxglove in Chiclana?

At Losteflor we have several units available. Drop by the nursery or contact us and we will help you choose the perfect plant for your garden.